| Day 1. Cusco - Km 82 - HUAYLLABAMBA
Very early, between 4:30 y 5:00 AM , the traveler is picked up from
his lodgings and taken by Pri vate
Bus to Piscacucho, in the village of Chilca . The road goes through
the Inca Sacred Valley , and the towns of Urubamba and Ollantaytambo.
If you so wish you can have breakfast in Urubamba .
The walk starts and one should take it easy in the beginning. After
a few minutes we reach and cross the hanging bridge of Cusichaca ,
on the Urubamba River , built with steel cables. We turn left after
the bridge and after crossing a forest of eucalyptus we reach the
Llactapata archaeological site. Llactapata, "village in the
highland", is an archaeological site at the foot of a mountain
situated on the left bank of the Cusichaca River , a tributary of
the Urubamba River . It has many cultivation terraces that probably
served to feed people from other places and also keep full the
"Ambos" (storehouses) of the Inca Road . Its urban sector holds more
than one hundred dwellings. It also has an Inca altar called "Pulpituyoq".
We will camp out at Huayllabamba; Huayllabamba , "Green field", is a
small indigenous village located in the foothills of a small
mountain and surrounded by fields of corn, potatoes and other
foodstuffs. Many groups camp out the first night in this place,
because there are public toilet facilities and plenty of water.
Close by, in an area called Patawasi, there are Inca terraces and
some ancient Inca buildings. The first day can be cloudy, almost
rainy, but easy to walk because of the level and beautiful trail.
The normal fatigue felt after a day on the trail slowly dissipates
as the traveler rests and smells the perfume of an orchid, while
darkness slowly creeps up the majestic peak of the Salkantay in the
distance. Time on the trail: Three and a half hours to the first
camping site at Huayllabamba.
Day 2
HUAYLLABAMBA - PACAYMAYU
This is the most difficult part of the trek. You climb abruptly
upwards until you reach the Warmihuañusca Pass (It means "Where the woman dies" in a literal
translation from the Quechua.) at an altitude of 4200 meters. It is
a hard and tedious ascension on a pronounced vertical slope until
you reach the pass. Along the climb you will appreciate the changing
ecology, as you leave the reasonably mild valley behind and reach
the treeless pastures in the cold high parts.
The high mountain grass "ichu", can be found at the highest
parts of these pastures. Before reaching the pass there is a camping
site called "Llullupampa" , which is to be found on a small flat
plain surrounded by two crystal clear streams. It also has a public
toilet. It is a good place for the traveler to stop over for a rest
before climbing up the last part to the Warmihuañusca pass. This
part of the trail was known as the smugglers route during the XVIII
y XIX centuries and is the only point along the way where you could
really become altitude sick. Normally there are strong winds and low
temperatures up here.
Once across the pass, we will need an additional rest to
recover before we start down towards the Pacasmayo River valley,
where we will reach the campsite with public toilet facilities and a
small waterfall. If during the first day the trail was barely
perceptible, since it has almost disappeared due to the effect of
the many earthquakes in the area, the part we cross on the second
day is well defined, almost like a stone-inlaid street. There are
also very steep staircases, ones of which steps are almost vertical
putting a heavy strain on everybody's unprepared knees. Time on the
trail: Six to seven hours until the second campsite in Pacaymayu.
3 PACAYMAYU -
WIÑAYHUAYNA
It
is considered the longest part of the trail. Although the
differences in height are not big, it is a l ong
hike. A second pass must be overcome where one can find the
impressive archaeological remnants of Runkuracay , situated at 3800
m.a.s.l. (Approximately 12467 ft.) Runkurakay takes it name from its
half circle shape with a single entrance way with seven door-holes
leading off into seven different rooms. The semicircular shape
allows for shelter from the strong winds in the area. Then we
descend towards the Yanacocha lake (the Black Lake) arriving in
Sayaqmarca, "the Dominant village", an interesting Inca ruin on the
top of steep mountain, with a panoramic view over the Acobamba
valley and the snow clad Pumasillo peak. It is in the shape of a
maze of very narrow streets, some which lead off to other places,
others that are dead ends. The only way to access these buildings is
through a steep but solid staircase of stone on the cliff side. The
chasm on one side is filled with exotic plants such as orchids and
lichens. It is like being inside a real living picture postcard. A
memory to cherish forever.
During the walk you will pass by Conchamarka, a recently discovered
small archaeological site and the Chakicocha camp, a spacious open
area with public toilet facilities and water. After this, we
continue uphill and we will come to the first tunnel along the
trail. It is about 20 meters (approximately 60 ft) long, downwards
sloping with steps hewn out of the living rock.
After, we continue uphill until we reach the third and last pass
along the trail with the citadel of Phuyupatamarca, "Village above
the clouds" , which is undoubtedly one of the most original citadels
along the Inca Trail. It is surrounded by the Cloud Forest. It is
located on the edge of a gulch that overlooks the Urubamba . Here
you will find many cultivation terraces and ceremonial fountains
with fresh water.
In the upper part there is a small square, where on sunny days one
can appreciate the beauty of the Urubamba and the nearby snow-clad
peaks. In the lower part there are circular constructions that look
like they were following the gradient of the terrain. Close to the
Phuyupatamarca pass the road starts winding downwards on circling
snail shell like massive stone gradients until it reaches a second
tunnel. After that the road goes along relatively plane cornices
that follow the Urubamba River , until we reach Wiñayhuayna.
Wiñayhuayna , "for ever young", is found at an altitude of de 2644
m.a.s.l. (Approximately 8675 ft) and the name is derived from the
typical orchids that can be found all year round with their red,
yellow and violet flowers. This is possibly the most attractive of
all the citadels along the Inca Trail, and the last urban centre
before reaching Machu Picchu . It was built on the steep mountain
slopes on the left bank of the Urubamba . It is divided into four
principal parts: the living quarters, in the lower part with more
than 20 buildings, the area holding the Ritual fountains, the area
with cultivation terraces and the Tower area. This last holds the
best architecture of the whole complex, thus being assumed to have
served religious purposes or belonged to the Inca Royalty. We camps
out in Wiñayhuayna .
Time on the Trail: Seven hours until reaching the last camp at
Wiñayhuayna.
DIA 4.
WIÑAYHUAYNA - MACHUPICCHU - CUSCO
It
is important to set aside sufficient time to visit the
archaeological sites and their surroundings. It would a pity if the
travelers, worrying about reaching Machu Picchu in a hurry, do not
stop over long enough to get to know the awesome archaeological sites along the way. The landscape
has now changed from the typical Andean to the typical Amazonian.
The Incas always built their fortresses from which they
could see without being seen, from where they could attack but not
be attacked. The mysterious citadel of Machu Picchu , hidden away on
a mountaintop on the edge of the tropical cloud forest region was
thus a very difficult place to find. this last part, the traveler
can see how the Urubamba river, finding its way down from the high
Andes to the deep Rainforest, meanders its way past hundreds of
meters tall freestanding cliffs all covered by luxuriant vegetation.
The trail continues along the side of a massif hanging over a wide
chasm with green slopes that come down to the noisy and foaming
rapids of the Urubamba River , thousands of meters further down.
Each turn of the road reveals a different species of plant life or
wildlife and beyond them, a new perspective of the impressive
surrounding landscape. After three hours walk, the traveler suddenly
finds himself at Intipunku, or the sun gate. A small complex of
small buildings that apparently seem to have been used as a control
and outlook post. It is an excellent photo opportunity for panorama
shots of all of Machu Picchu.
If the traveler has started out very early, he (or she) will arrive
just at dawn. This is maybe the best place and moment to contemplate
the majestic grandeur of Machu Picchu , the Lost City of the Incas.
You will return to the city of Cusco in a Bus and then by train. The
van will take you downhill from Machu Picchu to the town of Aguas
Calientes , and once there you take the train that will take you
back to Cusco and your comfortable hotel in only six hours.
Time on the Trail: Three hours until Machu Picchu , which we reach
approximately at seven in the morning. |